Lemp Mansion & Brewery

Lemp Mansion & Brewery (St. Louis, Missouri)

Brewing Up Tragedy!

Lots of people go to St. Louis to visit the Anheuser-Busch Brewery. I’ve been there myself and it’s not completely uninteresting… but for the morbidly-minded there’s a much more fascinating brewery just a few blocks away: the old, abandoned Lemp Brewery, once the biggest brewhouse in St. Louis, closed down by Prohibition. The first time I went to St. Louis (3/25/01), I wasn’t sure exactly where the Lemp Brewery was. I drove around the neighborhood aimlessly, hoping I’d bump into it, and imagine my delight when I turned a corner to behold the words ‘LEMP‘ blazing brightly across the century in the distance. I instantly fell in love with this building. It’s like a gothic castle and it covers 11 city blocks. I was delighted to see that the original Lemp Brewery emblem could still be seen on the side of the building. Why do I have such an incredibly fascination with the Lemp family and the Lemp brewery? Let me briefly tell you the story of the Lemps… one of the most tragic tales in St. Louis (or, indeed, the world).

John Adam Lemp arrived in St. Louis from Germany in 1838 and started a brewery, using the natural cave system under St. Louis as refrigeration to perfectly age his beer. His brewery was a huge success and he died a millionaire. His son William J. Lemp took over the family business and he was the one who built it into an industrial giant. Under his tutelage, the Lemp Brewery that still stands today was built. By 1870, Lemp was by far the largest brewery in St. Louis. However, here’s where the tragedies start…

The first major fissure in the Lemp dynasty occurred when Frederick Lemp, William’s favorite son and the heir-apparent to the brewery presidency, died under mysterious circumstances in 1901. (They think he worked himself to death…) William was despondent and withdrew from the world, until he finally shot himself in the head in a bedroom at the family mansion. William Lemp Jr. succeeded as heir to the family throne and the brewery’s fortunes began to decline until Prohibition closed the plant permanently in 1919. William Jr.’s sister, Elsa, who was considered the wealthiest heiress in St. Louis, committed suicide in 1920. On June 28, 1922, the magnificent Lemp brewery, which had once been valued at 7 million dollars, was sold to International Shoe Co. for $588,500. Although most of the company’s assets were liquidated, the Lemps continued to have a morbid attachment to the family mansion. After presiding over the sale of the brewery, William J. Lemp, Jr., shot himself in the mansion’s office. His son, William Lemp III, was forty-two when he died of a heart attack in 1943. William Jr.’s brother, Charles, continued to reside at the house after his brother’s suicide. An extremely bitter man, Charles led a reclusive existence until he too died of a self-inflicted gunshot wound. The body was discovered by his brother, Edwin. In 1970, Edwin Lemp died of natural causes at the age of ninety… and thus ended the Lemp family line.

Of course, with so much morbidity occurring at the mansion, I had to track it down too. It is, after all, considered “one of the most haunted houses in America” – and who can resist a billing like that? After one false start where I ended up back on the freeway and had to drive a few miles out of my way, I headed down the correct street and stumbled upon the beautiful Lemp Mansion. Unfortunately, I’d wasted so much time wandering the streets of St. Louis, that I arrived 20 minutes after the last tour began. The Lemp Mansion has now been turned into a dinner theater and I walked in to see that some dinner guests had already arrived and were dining in the same room where William Lemp, Jr. had shot himself all those years before. I wonder if they knew that? I wanted to take a picture of that room, but it felt slightly inappropriate with a bunch of people sitting in their fineries awaiting their meal, so I asked if I could wander about upstairs. They said sure, but I had forgotten that most of the mansion has been turned into an Inn, so the bedrooms are locked guest rooms. So, the best I could do is get a couple of pictures of the upstairs hallway. It was kindy creepy up there except for that glaringly out of place high chair! If I stayed there, I’d want to find out which room William committed suicide in and I’d want to stay there! Because, you know, I have a morbid attachment to the mansion too…

So, I decided I’d have to come back another time to get the full mansion tour… so on April 22, 2001 (a Sunday) I returned within visiting hours, eager to get my full tour. Now, here’s where the story turns grim. I noticed that there were a large number of cars outside the mansion, which made me a little nervous because, after all, there couldn’t possibly be that many people coming for a tour… and they didn’t serve lunch that early in the day previously. As I entered the Mansion my worst fears were realized:

“I would like to take a tour of the mansion.”

“We don’t have tours on the weekends any longer. We’ve started serving lunch on Saturdays and Sundays now.”

“But I’ve come all the way from California to take this tour. I have to work during the week so this is the only time I can take it.”

“Sorry.” <shrug> “You can walk around and take some pictures if you like…”

Oh gee, thanks a lot. I was incensed at my rotten luck!! There, in the parlor where William Lemp Jr. had shot himself, were about 20 patrons stuffing their faces. I thought about taking a picture with them there… but I was too timid to intrude… so I just walked upstairs again, cursing at the morons who had foiled my plans yet again!!! Regaining some measure of composure, although my eyes were slightly watery from bitter disappointment, I managed to snap a few shots of the “Most Haunted House In St. Louis”.

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I soon stomped out of the mansion grumpy as can be (it was one of those days, what can I say) and took a farewell exterior shot of the morbid abode and the yard (notice the word ‘Lemp’ on the brewery in the distance). I stood in the yard, still fuming, wondering what I should do now that my plans had been ruined… when I thought about the Lemp Brewery complex that I was so incredibly enamored with. Why not walk around the exterior of the Brewery and get a few extra shots while I’m here? As I began walking around the exterior – photographing the old “International Shoe Company” building (they utilized the Brewery after Lemp had gone out of business) and a remnant of the old Lemp Brewery logo – I found, much to my delight, that a gate had been left open and there was no evidence of anyone around to sully my explorations. I headed towards the interior of the Lemp Brewery Complex. I now present to you an obsessive, loving, and by and large quite dull photo-exploration of the old Lemp Brewery Complex.

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Altogether, a fantastic bit of tragic Americana!

Fabulous Facts!

  • Did you know that there’s a tunnel underneath the road leading from the mansion to the Brewery? That’s how the Lemps used to go to work. And there’s also an auditorium, swimming pool, and ballroom in one of the natural underground caves below the house. They used to cool their beer in the caves too.
  • Up until last year (2000) they used to open up the cavern on Halloween and have a haunted house down there. My heart was giddy when I first heard that… until I found out that the cavern is filling with water, so for liability purposes they sealed the door up after last year’s festivities. Damn my rotten luck! Someone told me that you can still get into the caverns from the brewery entrance and there is a bunch of International Shoe Company junk down there, but of course to do that you’d have to either get permission or break in. Hassles, hassles!
  • Someone bought the brewery for $200,000 a few years ago and there are talks of renovating it as a restaurant/entertainment complex. That’s always a mixed blessing – because while it’s great to preserve the place, renovation always means destroying some of the beauty of the building. Still, the preservation of the Lemp Brewery would be a grand thing, indeed!

A FASCINATING URBAN EXPLORATION STORY FROM JAY S.

I was wandering around the facility, just taking in some of the history and pondering what powers let this place go to ruin when I noticed a funny thing, an entrance to the main facility. Now, I have been an explorer of places like this for a long time, and love going into old buildings and imagining what they were like all that many years ago. So I took a peek inside. I found that this entrance led to the main facility. So later that night I rounded up a few of my best drinking buddies, grabbed some flashlights and we went exploring. The inside of this place is awesome. There are huge storage rooms that are the size of multiple football fields and at least 4 stories high, empty. Well, some of them are full, one of which by a production company (we had fun dressing like Ben Hur and attacking each other with fake swords and machine guns for about 2 hours). A series of staircases leads you to the underground passageways, which lead you to the caverns. This place has cavern upon cavern, all man made and all in brick arches, for at least 200 feet underground, one on top of the other. After reaching the lowest point of the facility you get to a huge steel door that must have been installed in the original construction because it is OLD AND HEAVY. It took some work to get this thing open but once we did, we had found the “infamous underground cave/swimming pool”. This cave is about 1/2 a mile long and, inside was the remains of the Lemp family swimming pool. I’m sorry to say that this thing is now no more than a muddy pool of water, it doesnt even remotely resemble a swimming pool. The caves are muddy and worn by man, but ironically, you can see small fossilized animal bones in the walls of the cave. I’ve since learned that this is because the cave itself used to have water rushing in from the Mississippi River and the bones were bones of dead river creatures, and creatures that died near the river, that washed through the caves and deposited in the muddy walls, millennium ago. After a little looking around we found an entrance in the cave to the mansion. Yes, this cave ran all the way from the lowest point of the brewery to the mansion. Now I have to say that I had a peek into the mansion but didn’t enter. I was drinking, but not quite drunk enough to turn a little innocent exploring into breaking and entering. So after about 4 hours of exploring we decided to head back. On the way back to the surface we were sidetracked by a separate set of stairs which led to another wing of the brewery. This portion of the place was obviously a packaging plant because there were huge tracks of rolling slides that went all over this gigantic room. It was awesome. we decided that the only fun thing to do was to grab an old box and roll around the place for about an hour. After about six straight hours of exploring we left.

I have been back at least seven times since then and have found a new part of the building ever since. I have stopped going a year and a half ago or so because the cops were starting to get wind. Plus my buds told their buds and their buds told their buds and eventually it became a nuisance so they closed it off. (Why must people ruin everything for me, I ask you???? – DeSpair)

Just a side note, on one trip into the caverns we noticed an old ice maker. This machine was obviously decommissioned many many years prior. We all stepped in closely to examine it further and when we did, IT KICKED ON!!!! No shit, I swear on my children’s lives. This scared a buddy of mine so bad that he ran to the car and waited for the rest of us for 4 hours. Thought you might like to hear that one.

PHOTOS FROM ALAN

I received an e-mail from an artist named Alan who rents studio space in the Lemp Brewery and was kind enough to send me some pictures of the interior of his studio space, as well as some images of the tunnels that lead to the mansion. Oh, I am soooo jealous!!!

“Hello from St. Louis! I just happend to come upon your website pertaining to the Historic Lemp Brewery. Thought you might be interested to know I am an artist who has been renting studio space in the brewery since 1989. Presently my studio is in what is building #8 which is located directly above an entrance to the cave system. It is very creepy down there, yet the architecture and brick work is simply amazing. Many of the walls are ceramic white glazed bricks which are built into the natural cave structure. Yes it is flooded down there. Although you can explore.”

Here are some images Alan generously provided:

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For more information on the Lemp Brewery, also see:

Ghosts Of The Prairie

 

Patee House Museum

Patee House Museum (St. Joseph, Missouri)

The Patee House served as the headquarters of the Pony Express from 1860-1861, but the really interesting stuff in this museum is related to the horrid crimes committed by the people of the area. Like a hammer and an electric drill used by a preacher’s son to beat a janitor to death, then drill holes in his body. The hair and blood is still visible on it. Or an axe that a housewife used to kill her husband, and a lynching rope that was used to hang a black man accused of raping a white girl. Or old horse-drawn hearses and an exhibit on Robert Ladlow, the world’s tallest man. In other words, there’s a cornucopia of morbid minutiae on display here. You can read all the best details at Roadside America. (Thanks to Bruce T. for the suggestion.)

 

Jesse James Home

Jesse James Home (St. Joseph, Missouri)
See the Bullet Hole!
April 21, 2001

Directions: Located 5 minutes from I-29. Take U.S. 36 west to the 10th Street Exit, then 6 blocks north and 2 blocks east.

Welcome to part II of my St. Joseph travelogue – in which I show you the Jesse James House and various neglected ruins laying forgotten by all but me, apparently. As you may or may not recall, at the end of the last episode I had just driven away from the Glore Psychiatric Museum Cemetery and was busy dabbing my eyes in memory of the forgotten numbers that were held prisoner in the Asylum in Olden Days. After that particularly engrossing stroll down memory lane, I decided it was time to see another morbid sight: the house where Jesse James died. Of course, this one doesn’t quite have the poignancy, but you know, how often to you get to visit a site whose proudly displayed slogan is “See the Bullet Hole!” Obviously, this was the place for me!

So, my friend Lacey and I started driving aimlessly across St. Joseph and we were immediately impressed by the number of old, abandoned buildings that littered the landscape. It was nearly a ghost town, and it made us both quite sad, but also excited to explore some of the ruins. Okay, we didn’t actually set foot inside them… we just walked around them and I took some pictures.

The first old building that caught our eye was the former Stuebner Cleaning Co. I just have a thing for forgotten brick buildings – they’re like aging reminders of where we’ve been… and unfortunate evidence of where we are now. This one had a nice central workyard too and I was quite smitten with this old door. There just seemed to be a lot of beauty in these old ruins.

Ah, but I’ve bored you long enough with culturally and historically insignificant old small-town factories. It’s time to move on to our goal – the Jesse James home – it’s that small, almost unnoticeable little structure at the right that is dwarfed by the huge Patee House next to it. With the Patee House out of the frame, it looks slightly more impressive and the tree in bloom added a nice touch. (It was an especially lovely time of year in Missouri.)

As I wandered towards the front door, I passed by a few Curious Things. First was this intriguing monument which had absolutely no explanation. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the adjacent Patee House, because it certainly doesn’t have anything to do with Jesse James… Oh, sweet mystery of life!

I also passed by a lovely little group of old gravestones… though where they came from or what they represent was not explained. I can’t imagine there’s really anyone buried underneath them, although I didn’t have my shovel so I couldn’t test that theory. Maybe it’s supposed to be the graves of Jesse’s victims? Maybe there was an old church graveyard there at one time? Maybe it’s just for show? Or maybe they moved some old James family corpses there. Oh, sweet mysteries of life! [Pamm later wrote me with the following explanation: “Hello, I was just looking at your great pictures from your trip to St Joseph, Missouri, especially the ones from the Jesse James Museum. The cemetery headstones in the yard, you did not know to whom they belonged. They are my family. The Russells’s were early settlers in St Joe, and when their old family cemetery was discovered, these headstones were moved here to preserve them. So Sorry, no dead bodies, or juicy stories of victims to go with them, just rocks : ). I had been looking all over the internet for a picture of these, so Thanks a million, I finally got to see them.” Thanks for the explanation – mystery solved!]

The third Curious Thing was this Victorian Outhouse. Lovely thing, isn’t it? But kind of strange, nonetheless. But we like Kind Of Strange things, don’t we?

I finally made it up to the entrance of the home. I immediately gravitated over to a case filled with James memorabilia, highlighted by a handsome post-mortem photograph. After perusing the case I wandered into the living room of the tiny house. The history of the house is pretty interesting, actually (at least to terminally dull people like me). It used to be a few blocks away, atop a nearby hill. After James’ death, it sat neglected and was set to be torn down. A man who knew the historic significance of the house was driving by it one day when they were beginning the process of demolition. He stopped and offered to buy the house – and had it moved to preserve it. Eventually it was moved into its current location. Thank goodness for that man, or I’d have nothing to take pictures of!

You all know how Jesse James died, right? What – you don’t??? Where have you been???? Anyway, here’s how Jesse died: he was hanging out with some guys one day, probably planning his next criminal act, when he noticed a needlepoint hanging on the wall was crooked. Being the anal retentive murderer that he was, he slid a chair under the needlepoint and climbed up on the chair to straighten it. As he was doing that, Bob Ford – not a buddy of his after all – calmly strode up behind him and shot him in the back of the head. Jesse collapsed, and his wife ran in from the other room to see Ford and his cronies running away from her fallen hubby. Of course, because James was a wanted man, no criminal charges were ever pressed against Ford and he became quite the celebrity (“The Man Who Shot Jesse James!”) before dying in some tragic circumstance I can’t quite remember…

Well, anyway, here I was standing in the room where it all happened – and oh, the air was electric! Well, okay, maybe not electric… but there was a faint sniff of ozone in the air, anyway. I turned around and what did I see but the famous bullet hole and a wall hanging imitating the one that Jesse had been straightening all those years ago. Why you could almost step back in time – the wallpaper was vintage – and if it wasn’t for the fact that souvenier hunters had been scavenging pieces of the hole for years – causing it to grow in size – the wall would be the same as when Jesse had last laid eyes and hands on it all those years ago. (People are just so damned greedy!!!) I must sadly inform you that the chair was a replica… only a fragment of the original one remained. I tend to think the wall hanging isn’t vintage either…

I wandered off into the adjacent room to find another treasure trove of morbid delight: information on the exhumation of Jesse! You see, some old man once claimed that he was the “real” Jesse James and that the body buried in Jesse’s grave must belong to another man. It’s one of those “haunting” and “enduring” controversies that allow a really great excuse to go and dig up bones! So, on July 17, 1995 a-diggin’ they did go! They found that Jesse’s grave and remains had been compacted to about a four inch width, so not much of the coffin remained. But what did remain ended up in this display cabinet so that I could gawk over it. Look at all this great stuff!! A bullet from Jesse’s right lung which stemmed from an old Civil War injury! The tie tack he was wearing when he was buried! The original ‘At Rest’ plaque, fragments of wood, handles and the shattered glass frontispiece from the coffin! It was almost as good as being there!

They also had on display a plaster casting of Jesse’s skull, with an orange bar showing the trajectory of the bullet. ‘Course it would have been better if it was the REAL skull, but y’know, life just can’t be that interesting… And here’s what they had to say about Jesse’s teeth. Gosh, I hope my teeth never end up in a museum… I can just imagine what they’d say: “Significant number of cavities indicate an overabuse of sugar, worn tooth surfaces betray a lifestyle that caused her to grit her teeth a lot… from this we can surmise that she worked for EDS…” I tell ya, some things are just better left buried!

Oh, and they did some DNA tests and proved that, wow, wouldn’t you know it?, that really WAS Jesse James buried in that grave! That old guy was just a wannabe!
Over in a case across the way was some more memorabilia – including a vintage photo of the house at its original location and a fragment of the original chair. Exciting stuff, eh?

So, that’s about all there was to see at the Jesse James museum. So, what else can a nostalgic old skulker do in a town like St. Joseph? Why, look at abandoned buildings, of course! Did you have any doubt??? Here are the steps leading up to one of my favorite old forgotten houses in St. Joseph. It was a beautiful brick house, overgrown and in decline. I found something especially poignant about this tulip in bloom – a remnant of a long-neglected garden. I could imagine at one time a woman kneeling over the earth as she placed this very bulb in the ground and looking about at her beautifully tended grounds and home. I wonder if her ghost haunts the sad remnants today, and cries a mournful tear at the surroundings? As Lacey and I circled the house, we were a bit shocked to see some old plastic flowers in one of the windows. (And does anyone else see a face in this window? I swear I can make out two big eyes filling up the width of the window staring at me… Creepy! And Elizabeth sees something else: “Ohmigawd!!! Didn’t you notice the girl in the window?!? Her face is in the upper left hand corner of the lower pane of glass. She is wearing a, what is it called, a pinaforte – a white bibbed apron that reaches down to the knee with ruffled shoulders. They used to be worn over a dress up ’till the early 1900’s. Am I crazy or what? Didn’t you see that? Her hand is reaching to part the curtains. I can see half of her face, she is looking out the window right at you!” Enough freaking out the Comtesse, people!) The flowers actually made us wonder if maybe we were not alone, in a far more mundane meaning of the term… but come on… would anyone seriously traverse these steps on a daily basis? No, I think it’s another relic from a time long past…

St. Joseph is full of such beautiful, neglected relics. Check out this place, with its putrid, green paint peeling to reveal the lovely brickwork underneath. Not every place was a downtrodden ruin though – quite a few of the loveliest buildings still retained some hope for a restored tomorrow. Check out this unique house. Or this lovely gothic retreat. Or my personal favorite – this amazing corner house. It really was a lovely town – as this central courtyard, this view towards the river, and this view of the mighty Missouri itself can attest. And since you know by now how much I love to snoop around and photograph urban ruins, you know that I can’t really complain about those either. All in all, St. Joseph was a perfectly lovely (and somewhat morbid) little town… and I hope you enjoyed it too!

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Julie writes with some additional information about the Jesse James home: “Just saw your Web page on Jesse James house. Did you know that it was given to the Patee Museum in the mid-1980s? And that it was originally purchased by my grandfather and sat on the Belt Highway for years near the spot where the Hi-Vee grocery store now sits?”

For more information on the Jesse James Home, also see:
City Of St. Joseph Website

 

Glore Psychiatric Museum

Glore Psychiatric Museum (St. Joseph, Missouri)

A Glore-ious Place!

Glore Psychiatric Museum
April 21, 2001

Those who know my morbid nature (and don’t you all?) probably already know this, but I’ve been shivering in anticipation for a visit to the Glore Psychiatric Museum since I first heard about it several weeks ago. The reasons are multi-fold:

1) I have an intense love for the old, picturesque “Kirkbride Plan” asylums built in the 19th century – hence my frequent visits to the often quite tragic Historic Asylums Of America website which chronicles the renovation, preservation, and (frequently, sadly) demolition of these fine old structures.

2) I find the treatment of the insane in the Victorian era (and prior… and beyond…) to be immensely abhorrent, and I can’t help but wonder if I were born in that era, would I have been one of the tortured, imprisoned multitudes?

3) It’s just fascinating to visit morbid old places!

So, on an overcast April morning I set out to drive all the way across the state of Missouri to see remnants of the State Lunatic Asylum #2 in St. Joseph. I stopped briefly in Columbia (half way across the state) to pick up my friend Lacey. While there I took a picture of a powerhouse out of sheer perverse fascination. We may not have enough power to go around in California, but at least we don’t pollute the environment by burning coal to harness our electricity! (We use much safer nuclear power instead…) 😉 I kept thinking of the Navajo speaker I saw in Columbia a few weeks ago that said that coal was Mother Earth’s liver and the white man was ripping the liver out of the Earth. There was a lot of liver lying on the ground.

Once I overcame my ridiculous geographic curiosities, I picked up Lacey and we were on our way. It was a long drive filled with splendid conversation. Eventually, we drove past Kansas City and north to St. Joseph. After one wrong turn (maps can be sooooo tricky!), we found our way to the Glore Museum… and gosh, it was incredibly underwhelming! Where was the beautiful old 1874 Kirkbride building?? Well, as I was soon to find out, that beautiful old building was now a prison – hidden behind ugly barbed wire topped fences – and the museum was now housed in a more recent section of the old asylum. After my initial disappointment melted away – it took several hours and hundreds of tranquilizers, of course – I decided to buck up and do the right (morbid) thing, and enjoy the museum for what it was – a tribute to the imaginative and creative drifters who were imprisoned in the asylum, and the insane sadists who lorded over them.

When we first entered the museum, we were greeted by a very friendly staff member who gave us a brief history of the asylum. The State Lunatic Asylum #2 was built in 1874 and was active until 1997. During that time, it held as many as 3,000 patients at a time behind its “brick walls of divide” (hopelessly obscure Red House Painters reference). We were given instructions to take the elevator to the 3rd floor to begin our tour, and so we did.

The first thing we saw – and certainly the most memorable – was a display of the stomach contents of a particularly disturbed inmate. You see, in 1929, a patient with a proclivity for swallowing odd objects became acutely ill and was rushed to surgery. During the emergency procedure, 1,446 objects – including 453 nails, 409 pins, 63 buttons, 42 screws, 5 thimbles, and 3 salt shaker tops – were removed from her intestinal tract. Tragically, but unsurprisingly, she died during surgery.

That was quite a way to start off the tour, and as I walked away pondering what it must have felt like to walk around with 453 nails ripping at your intestines, I soon found myself staring at another wicked relic: blood-letting blades, cup, and stick. Blood letting was one of the best ways to cure practically any ailment in the olden days. Yep, if you just bleed people long enough they will be too weak to complain! They are cured!! And of course, no one was more annoying than the mentally ill. See that truncheon-y looking stick? That was used to tap on those rather vicious looking blades to force them through the skin and cause the patient to bleed. The glass bleeding cups were placed against the skin and either heat or cold was applied to them, causing a vacuum to form inside the glass. The patient’s blood would be sucked to the skin’s surface – then the blood was collected in the cup. Tidy, n’est pas?

Next came the first of the mannequins (depicting hydrotherapy – one of the few “treatments” here that doesn’t look completely horrid… unless one considers that they probably forgot about people and left them in the water for hours on end). One of the most delightfully kitschy aspects of the museum are these brilliant old mannequins decked out in the most torturous devices and poses. My goodness – little did they know when they were posing in J.C. Penney in 1976 that they’d end up in such a sorry state one day!! Here’s a particularly fetching mannie in a fever cabinet: “This fever cabinet was used in the treatment of syphilis. The cabinet was lined with rows of high wattage light bulbs that produced heat, elevating the patient’s body temperature. This was intended to kill the spirochete and arrest or halt the syphilitic condition.” I’m not sure if it cured syphilis, but I’m sure it inspired Gene Roddenbury when he devised the character of Captain Pike.

And what sort of self-respecting Psychiatric Museum would be worth its salt without singing a chorus from a Ramones song? Gimme Gimme Shock Treatment! I was also appalled and amazed by the Rectal Dilators on display. OUCH!! In front of the dilators is a bullet that was removed from a patient during surgery – that was put there 52 years prior when he was shot after “courting another man’s wife”. That’ll learn you!

Something about this next mannie just spoke to me! Isn’t that straitjacket just fetching beyond belief? Or how about this psychotic sophisticate with her dainty little restraints? But don’t be too misled by such seemingly innocent looking restraints. Here’s evidence of some of the less comfy looking restraints, from the original basement of the asylum. For those unruly patients where even restraints wouldn’t do the trick, there were the seclusion rooms.

Then there was the truly Silly part of the museum: a study of the treatment of the insane over the years. Gasp as a dreamy misunderstood mannequin is burned at the stake! Shiver as an innocent brunette mannequin is doused with freezing water (ie. cellophane) by an evil eyeless mannequin! Shudder at the uncomfortable fate of this tortured soul! And the equally uncomfortable fate of this faceless soul! And how’s this for silly? No, I’m not talking about my reflection in the glass – I mean the little dolls re-enacting water torture. Something kinda perverse about that, I guess…

And here’s a lovely reproduction of a Lunatic Box. “The Lunatic Box, sometimes called the English Booth, the Coffin or the Clock Case, was used during the 18th and 19th centuries. The victim was placed in device and had to remain in a standing position until he or she became calm. A wooden piece could be dropped over the opening of the face leaving the patient in complete darkness. The patient stood in his own excrement for extended periods of time.” What a gruesome world…

As enchanting as those exhibits may have been, I didn’t find them particularly interesting. I was more interested in the history of this hospital itself, so something as seemingly mundane as a table from the asylum’s cafeteria was much more interesting to me. I was also interested in the lives of the patients who had lived here – and I found this schizophrenic’s needlepoint particularly enchanting. I would love to have it in my house! And then there was the TV Guy: “In the fall of 1971, a male patient was observed inserting a piece of folded paper through a slot into the back of the ward television set. The set was turned off and the hospital’s electrician was notified. When the back was removed from the set a collection of papers, numbering 525, was discovered. Some were written as letters while others appear to be a daily diary system. Some of the patient’s delusions, mentioned in the writings, included the belief that the hospital was stealing his money. He also believed that his knowledge was hidden away in a couple of box cars and that he could not leave the hospital until this was exposed. ” You can read his eccentric and irrational writings – they’re plastered all over the wall. Compelling stuff, of course.

And then there was the particularly touching story of the patient who believed that if he saved up 100,000 cigarette packs he would be able to redeem them for a new wheelchair for the hospital. Of course, no such redemption existed, but the hospital administration felt sufficiently moved by his efforts to buy a wheelchair and dedicate it to the hospital in his name in 1969. Doesn’t that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside?

Here, of course, was my favorite room of the museum. It’s an actual morgue, not a staged one. On the table in front of the “corpse” was an example of a nameless headstone that was used in the asylum’s cemetery about a half-mile away. Of course, Lacey and I asked for directions to the cemetery and decided we had to find it after we finished with the museum…

We finished up the last few exhibits in the museum – including the staircase from the original administration building, which was recently torn down. (Sob…) They liked to decorate the old asylums with lovely and ornate staircases and lobbies – so as to fool the families into thinking, “Oh, this is such a nice place for Aunt Betty” – as they drag her away to put the shackles on her.

After purchasing a t-shirt, some postcards, and a squishy brain stress ball, we wandered back to the parking lot and I decided I had to venture up to the prison fence to try to get a picture of the old asylum, despite the warnings of the museum employee who said that they tried to confiscate her camera the last time she tried to take pictures at the fence. But no one seemed to notice my blatant disregard of the warning signs, fortunately. Well, except for this little cutie I passed on the way back to the car. Of course, we know why he was hanging about the asylum – ’cause he loves Nuts! Hahahahahaha… I slay myself… (so you don’t have to).

After leaving the museum, we drove off to try to find the cemetery, which the tour guide stated was just around the block, across the street from a Food 4 Less. We followed the instructions to a little parking lot beside a monument next to a large field with the old asylum visible behind the trees in the background.

The tombstones themselves were sadly nondescript – just an anonymous number left to memorialize a living, breathing human being. To make matters worse, many of the stones were in state of disrepair, although a restoration project is in the works, thankfully. There were a couple of ‘named’ stones – obviously paid by private dollars – that stood out in the mix. Before leaving, I took one last look across the fields to the old Asylum and reflected on the lives that passed on those premises.

As I drove away from the State Lunatic Asylum #2, I took one last picture from the car. A beautiful place – pity about the prison!


Courtesy of Tee

I received some additional images and information in July, 2005 from Tee, who provides the following information. Thanks Tee!

The first one is of the back side of the Administration building taken in 1991, well before it was turned into a prison. You will note the barbed wire cage on the top of the roof. They had to add that, I am not sure of the year, due to suicides from the roof.

The next set of 5 pictures are of the original building. It is a series of long hallways. Although remodeled many times over the years you can see a lot of the original architecture remains. This building housed the museum later on before it was moved to where it is now and before the building was made into a prison. I took this set of 5 in the foyer – from the North, South East and West views and one looking up at the sky light. They had to close it in due to the same problem with suicides. While my grandmother worked there many many years starting in the later 1930’s there were a lot of suicides and at least 5 from beyond that sky light and one thru the glass that had been replaced.

The West picture view, shows the double doors and a row of chairs . This is what became used for offices for personnel during the mental hospital time frame.

North view – shows the massive stair case.

East view shows the elevators which lead up to the other floors and an original piece of furniture which is a bench and coat rack. The pictures show the original floor tile made of ceramic and the original ceiling and some of the bead board. That is the original staircase redone after a fire I believe.

Skylight view – shows that it has been closed off from above. The original crown molding is still there and cathedral woodwork over doors.

The next series will be pictures from inside the Glore museum which was entered by climbing the steps in the picture and going to the northwestern side of the building. These were also taken in 1991.
pic 1 – crafts preserved that were made by patients, some utensils are also in this china cabinet
pic 2 – These were the rooms, you could still see them all along the hallways although being used for other purposes then (I myself had training and watched video’s in one…but fell asleep and had a horrible dream..I could not relax in there and kept feeling as if someone was watching me and I kept hearing whispering. very odd) anyway… that is a mannequin to symbolize a patient… (not even close I’m sure) and the same beds they used (prob the same mattress) and bedside stand. Note the architectural detail on the window, they are all like that. [Awesome windows! – Despair]
pic 3 – The infirmary there is a dentist chair, very antique tools and medical instruments etc.
pic 4 – The type of bars used on most of the rooms, this is a room divided by such bars
pic 5 – A medical treatment (torture box) The idea was to isolate the patient to somehow force them to come to their senses so to speak. If they were faking etc they would surely drop the facade after a day or so in here. The patient had to stand, not enough room to sit and they slept, urinated, ate (if lucky) in this box.
pic 6 – Another medical device (torture chair). The bucket represents the potty part of the chair… leather restraints replaced a sort of metal device that used to hold the wrists and leather restraint across the chest. Blood letting was used with this chair, as well as leeches, shock treatment and my grandmother told us even lobotomies.
pic 7 – Dungeon picture – the word Dungeon was added for the tourists… but it is a dungeon made of wood. Very hot in summer.
pic 8 – This was used as a crate to hold veg and potatoes, onions etc when my grandmother worked there…but in earlier years it was another kind of holding cage for patients. They lay in it (and their own excrement) until they were removed, if they lived thru it.
pic 9 – This is a large wheel with a door (the door is in the back and cannot be viewed for safety purposes at the museum) the idea was they put a patient in there and turned it …and turned it ..and…you get the idea. They would get dizzy, vomit etc…
pic 10 – This is a vat of ice cold water. There is a trap door device at the top like a gallows and the patient would stand and with no warning, be dropped into the icy cold water. The idea was to shock them out of their illness and back to reality. This was the main theme in treatment during this time. Most died from drowning due to the shock of the water and sometimes they were drugged or simply could not stand up out of the water. Some hit their heads on the way down and escaped the drowning.I cannot find my photo of the spinning board. In which many patients were placed. Unfortunately they didn’t think about gravity… spun them pretty fast and their brains came out their eye sockets.Many of these devices were used well into the later 1940’s…and believe it or not, although lobotomies were stopped being done across the US, this asylum continued to do them into the 1960’s I am told. They also continued to do shock treatments well into the later 1970’s and early 1980s (just FYI).

For more information on the Glore Psychiatric Museum, also see:
Roadside America
Savvy Traveler

Haun’s Mill

Haun’s Mill (Kingston, Missouri)

Haun’s Mill Massacre Site
North of Kingston, MO

Directions:
The road to the site of Jacob Haun’s Mill is a very difficult trip, even in the best of weather. Just north of Kingston, on Missouri Highway 13, the road crosses Shoal Creek, not far north of that is County Road U. Going east on U one continues until the intersection with Road K, continuing east, the road becomes gravel at this point, and deteriorates the further back you go. The way is decently marked, however, if you go while the signs are still up. (many are crude, and appeared to be made of cardboard) There are many mud holes in the road that exist even after weeks of dry weather. Very close to the creek, the road “T’s.” Take the right turn, if you take the left you will cross the creek. At the end of the road on the right, is a small parking area, and a path that leads through a small field to the sign marking the site (above).

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It’s a bit of a head-scratcher, but, believe it or not, once upon a time it was legal to kill Mormons in Missouri. In fact, Governor Lilburn W. Boggs issued an Extermination Order in 1838 which demanded that Latter-Day Saints leave the state or be killed. Why was the Governor so upset with the Mormons? Well, ever since the Mormons had been moving into Missouri there were rumors spreading that the Latter-Day Saints were planning to “despoil” the Missourians and take their land. So, you know, tensions grew and they came to a boil at Haun’s Mill in Northwestern Missouri on October 30, 1838. Some 200-250 militia attacked the mill and 17 Mormons and one friendly non-Mormon were killed; another 13 were wounded, including one woman and a seven year old boy. Certain deaths were particularly offensive to the Saints. Seventy-eight-year-old Thomas McBride surrendered his musket to militiaman Jacob Rogers, who shot him, then hacked his body with a corn knife. William Reynolds discovered ten-year-old Sardius Smith hiding under the bellows and blew the top of the child’s head off. While women cared for the wounded, the men remained in hiding during the night. The dead were thrown into an unfinished well and lightly covered with dirt and straw. A few Missourians returned the next day, took plunder, and warned the remaining Saints to leave Missouri. Now, don’t stories like that just make you proud to be an American?

So, Haun’s Mill – Site Of Infamy. I haven’t actually been to the site, but from what I hear there isn’t a lot of evidence of the Mill left. The stones have been removed and the site of the well where the bodies were buried has been overgrown and lost to the ages. The thrilling place is described by one visitor: “Haun’s Mill was not all that exciting. We drove on a bunch of dirt roads… Haun’s Mill is just a swamp by a river. There were tons of bugs. Even though it wasn’t that impressive, it was good to see an historical site that was totally untouched. ”

So, I guess if you’re one of those people who get chills down the spine just standing on the battlefields at Gettysburg, then you might find Haun’s Mill interesting… but if you need to see the bullet holes to be satisfied then this probably isn’t the place for you.

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Tony Jameson sent me the following information in June, 2010:

My name is Tony Jameson. I am a distant relative of Charles Jameson. Charles and his wife Mary Hedrick Jameson had joined the Latter-day Saint church and were baptized on April 6, 1834. They lived in Perry, Richland County, Ohio. When members of the church were compelled to move from Ohio to Missouri, Charles and Mary moved to Missouri with them. From my research it is not clear to me if Charles and Mary were among the 50 families who lived at Hauns’ Mill, or if they were just passing through the area on the way to Far West, Missouri. At any rate on October 30, 1838 they (and I suppose their many children) were there. Charles was shot four times. Once in the head (which was severe enough to expose his brain), once in the shoulder, and twice in the abdomen. Like all the people in the massacre he tried to escape into the woods. Reduced to crawling he was able to make it to the wood line when two of the militia soldiers came upon him. One of the the soldiers was going to shoot him and finish the deed. The other said something to the effect, “Don’t waste your ammunition upon him. Let him suffer longer; he’s already going to die”. With that they left him to bleed to death. However, Charles somehow survived.

Charles’ life was preserved despite his persecutions. Later the Mormons were forced to flee Illinois or face a similar fate as many of the Mormons faced at Hauns Mill. During the 1,500 mile trek to the safety of the Rock mountains Charle’s wife Mary died of Cholera. Charles later married Nancy Stanley. Nancy and Charles are my progenitors. I am here writing this E-mail to you today, because of a morbid twist of fate at Hauns’ Mill. Had the Missouri militia members come upon Charles Jameson and his brain was not exposed and his abdominal contents not partially eviscerated, they probably would have shot and killed him like they did the other men and small boys. But instead they wanted him to suffer longer. Consequently, they left him to die thus saving themselves a piece of lead they might use on some other defenseless man or child.

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Keith or Janet Cartwright (they didn’t specify who wrote the e-mail) visited Haun’s Mill, and sent me the following account:

I visited the site of Haun’s Mill on the 5th of May, 2002. Yes, It was a bit difficult to find, and yes it would have been near impossible to reach if it had rained within a few days before I arrived, but the visit was well worth my time.

There were a few signs posted on fence posts along the way with an arrow painted to show which direction to turn. This helped a great deal to find the place.

The weather was calm and there were no insects buzzing about. I found a very peaceful and tranquil setting. The stream moves very slow at this location and the trees are very tall. I saw nothing to indicate that anyone other than sightseers had ever been here. As I was leaving, I spotted a stone marker lying in the grass about 10 yards off from the road. This marker had also been vandalized but gave a description of the events of that day in October, 1838.

There is a piece of one of the millstones from Haun’s Mill on display at the LDS Visitor Center on Walnut Street at Independence, MO. It is with the pioneer artifacts on the basement level exhibits.

Thanks, Keith or Janet!

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Hans Brinker visited the site and shares the following:

I visited the site of Haun’s Mill in 1996. I can confirm the reports of rough roads and lots of bugs (the big kind that almost crack your windshield while trying to get to you). Something that was not mentioned on your site: There is a nice wood monument sign there on the approximate site of the well; it has a gold-colored metal plaque engraved with the names of those who died there.

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Nicole visited the site and reports the following:

I am a 19 Year old female who lives only about 30 miles west of Haun’s Mill and not far from Far West. My friends and I went to Haun’s Mill last night, October 30 and saw what there was to see. I believe that if you are out there and you are into what is going on then it can be a very spiritual visit. If everyone is quiet enough you can hear the events take place. You can hear the people scurrying around and you can hear people cry for help. The comment in your web site was untrue because yes you have to go down a lot of dirt roads but once you get there it is a very intense situation. I enjoyed Haun’s Mill and I will return there someday to visit again.There is a very neat grave stone that tells you all about the massacre. The stone lays under a tree that is probably over [a] century old and it said that the tree can’t be killed.

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Keith visited the site and reports the following:

I spent summers on a farm just outside Hamilton, Missouri and my parents took me to Haun’s mill all the time. I believe there were some expeditions to locate the actual well and exhume the bodies to give them a proper burial, but they could never find the well. My parents actually know where the well is and showed me. I believe its a few miles away. The mormons are not buried by Shoal creek. They’re buried in a now deserted field. There used to be a farm house in the field, which deteriorated and crumbled away. The part about getting tingles being there and nothing to see, but a sign, and a very small plaque in the weeds is definitely true.

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Laurette and Jim send the following:

This is a quote that I came across in the Joseph Brigham Keeler Family History book “Build Thee More Stately” by Daniel M Keeler.

“…a group of Saints traveling from Kirtland to Missouri in October 1838, had been brutally attacked by 240 armed men as they rested their animals at Haun’s Mill. Nineteen men and young boys were killed or fatally wounded. Among these were Levi Merrick and his nine-year-old son, Charles.
The wounded and dying were left without care.
Philinda Eldredge Merrick, Levi’s widow, and her surviving children were left with the other families to fend for themselves in the cold November weather. The mob took their wagons containing food, clothing and supplies and threatened to kill all survivors if they did not leave, even though their means of departure had been removed.(Joseph Smith 1948, 3:183-187, 323-326).

(Philinda married Daniel Hutchinson Keeler )

Their granddaughter Philinda Keeler Naegle proceeded with following account:

“Philinda Merrick witnessed in horror the murder of her husband in cold blood, and the mortal wounding of her eldest son, Charlie, as he lay almost hidden behind the bellows in the blacksmith shop…
The pillaging that followed the massacre, the mobsters took the Merrick team and , from Brother Merrick’s pocket, the proceeds from the sale of their former home, leaving Plilinda penniless(Ibed 5).
Phillinda nursed her wounded son until he died in late November and somehow cared for her other three children (Fanny, Newton and George) (Ibed., 4)

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mfciam sends the following:

I went with my school to Haun’s Mill for an archeological dig. << No well, just many nails, some pottery and a musketball.>> The church owns it, so it was kinda weird having scores of geriatric mormons showing up in a tour bus every couple of hours. The place has no remaining buildings – it’s just a field with a parking lot. The story was great, but the hours of trowel-scraping at the dirt were not as exciting. There’s an amazing tour guy who gives historical tours about Far West, but I’d suggest you have some background understanding of the importance of Far West or you end up getting very bored and taking pictures of monuments trying to get angles where the lord ends up saying things like < > I’m not sure if it’s a secular tour group. They didn’t really focus on any religion, so it could be taken as a purely historical tour. I’m sure if one were to talk nicely to *somebody* from that website they could end up with the proper connections to work on a dig over the summer.

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Scott sends the following:

My ancestors were at the Haun’s Mill Massacre and we recently found a few new details as told by Mellisa Norton.

Her father was David Norton who owned land East of Haun’s Mill on the south side of the creek and was close to the Austin Hammer family. In fact two of the Norton brothers married two of Austin Hammer’s daughters.

Here is her story related in Mellisa’s obituary.

‘Her father and family gathered to the mill for protection the night previous to the massacre. Father Norton had a premonition that trouble would occur and that if he remained he would be slain. His home being in a rather secluded place he returned with his family, consequently they escaped injury. The day after the massacre David Evans and others of the survivors, took refuge in a thicket on Brother Norton’s farm. To them, in company with her mother, Mellisa carried provisions until peace was restored….’

David Norton, (the father) later built his home right next to David Evans in the old fort at Lehi, Utah. To my knowledge, this detail of what happened after the massacre has never been reported.

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Do you disagree? Do you have pictures or stories to share about Haun’s Mill?
Please – by all means – WRITE ME!

Missouri History Museum

Missouri History Museum (St. Louis, Missouri)

Sunny recommends this site: “I spent the weekend in St. Louis, and my husband and I went to the Missouri History Museum in Forest Park one afternoon. That is one MORBID museum! I mean, I love the macabre as much as the next girl and there were some things that even made me sit back and go, ‘eww’. Like the death mask of the child who died during the cholera epidemic in 1849, complete with a tiny coffin. (With a picture of the child from when she was alive with her mom!) Or the collection of pictures of dead people taken by their grieving families as mementos. Or the slavers’ chains you can actually PUT ON around your ankles. Or (and this was my favorite) the collection of coroner’s notes from autopsies done on the bodies of people killed during the Camp Jackson Affair of 1861. WAAAY less sanitized than the Smithsonian, lemme tell ya. An engaging way to spend an icy afternoon in St. Louis.”