Wood County Historical Museum

Wood County Historical Museum (Bowling Green, Ohio)

Why stop in Bowling Green? Why, to see the fingers of Mary Bach, of course! Roadside America explains what it’s all about: “… their prized display — three human fingers in a jar. The fingers belonged to Mary Bach, who was murdered. The knife used to sever the fingers, and the noose used to hang the man who severed them, are proudly presented alongside the popular Tater Tot-like appendages. ‘Those fingers built this museum,’ the curator boasts.” (Special thanks to Kathy Harrington for sending me the Roadside America link.)

 

Alexander Hamilton Death Rock

Alexander Hamilton Death Rock (Weehawken, New Jersey)

From Roadside America: “Near a picturesque cliff along the Hudson River, overlooking the island of Manhattan, Aaron Burr did battle with Alexander Hamilton. The date was July 12, 1804. The actual rock ‘on which rested the head of Alexander Hamilton’ after he was mortally wounded is the base of the monument. Turned out that while Hamilton was (as noted on the stone) a ‘Patriot, Soldier, Statesman, and Jurist,’ Burr was a guy from Newark with more pistol practice. Perched atop the Rock of Death is, appropriately, a bronze head of Alexander Hamilton.”

Fort Robinson

Fort Robinson (Crawford, Nebraska)

Fort Robinson is another of the many sad, sickening places in the Plains where Native Americans were fucked over royally. Here’s a nice description of the fort from Liz, who recommended it: “You may be interested in a mildly morbid place called Fort Robinson, which is 30 minutes west of my home town. This is the place where Dull Knife and his people escaped the US Cavalry, only to be re-captured and sent to Ft. Sill, and also where Crazy Horse was murdered.”
The land of the free, indeed…

 

Patee House Museum

Patee House Museum (St. Joseph, Missouri)

The Patee House served as the headquarters of the Pony Express from 1860-1861, but the really interesting stuff in this museum is related to the horrid crimes committed by the people of the area. Like a hammer and an electric drill used by a preacher’s son to beat a janitor to death, then drill holes in his body. The hair and blood is still visible on it. Or an axe that a housewife used to kill her husband, and a lynching rope that was used to hang a black man accused of raping a white girl. Or old horse-drawn hearses and an exhibit on Robert Ladlow, the world’s tallest man. In other words, there’s a cornucopia of morbid minutiae on display here. You can read all the best details at Roadside America. (Thanks to Bruce T. for the suggestion.)

 

Jesse James Home

Jesse James Home (St. Joseph, Missouri)
See the Bullet Hole!
April 21, 2001

Directions: Located 5 minutes from I-29. Take U.S. 36 west to the 10th Street Exit, then 6 blocks north and 2 blocks east.

Welcome to part II of my St. Joseph travelogue – in which I show you the Jesse James House and various neglected ruins laying forgotten by all but me, apparently. As you may or may not recall, at the end of the last episode I had just driven away from the Glore Psychiatric Museum Cemetery and was busy dabbing my eyes in memory of the forgotten numbers that were held prisoner in the Asylum in Olden Days. After that particularly engrossing stroll down memory lane, I decided it was time to see another morbid sight: the house where Jesse James died. Of course, this one doesn’t quite have the poignancy, but you know, how often to you get to visit a site whose proudly displayed slogan is “See the Bullet Hole!” Obviously, this was the place for me!

So, my friend Lacey and I started driving aimlessly across St. Joseph and we were immediately impressed by the number of old, abandoned buildings that littered the landscape. It was nearly a ghost town, and it made us both quite sad, but also excited to explore some of the ruins. Okay, we didn’t actually set foot inside them… we just walked around them and I took some pictures.

The first old building that caught our eye was the former Stuebner Cleaning Co. I just have a thing for forgotten brick buildings – they’re like aging reminders of where we’ve been… and unfortunate evidence of where we are now. This one had a nice central workyard too and I was quite smitten with this old door. There just seemed to be a lot of beauty in these old ruins.

Ah, but I’ve bored you long enough with culturally and historically insignificant old small-town factories. It’s time to move on to our goal – the Jesse James home – it’s that small, almost unnoticeable little structure at the right that is dwarfed by the huge Patee House next to it. With the Patee House out of the frame, it looks slightly more impressive and the tree in bloom added a nice touch. (It was an especially lovely time of year in Missouri.)

As I wandered towards the front door, I passed by a few Curious Things. First was this intriguing monument which had absolutely no explanation. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the adjacent Patee House, because it certainly doesn’t have anything to do with Jesse James… Oh, sweet mystery of life!

I also passed by a lovely little group of old gravestones… though where they came from or what they represent was not explained. I can’t imagine there’s really anyone buried underneath them, although I didn’t have my shovel so I couldn’t test that theory. Maybe it’s supposed to be the graves of Jesse’s victims? Maybe there was an old church graveyard there at one time? Maybe it’s just for show? Or maybe they moved some old James family corpses there. Oh, sweet mysteries of life! [Pamm later wrote me with the following explanation: “Hello, I was just looking at your great pictures from your trip to St Joseph, Missouri, especially the ones from the Jesse James Museum. The cemetery headstones in the yard, you did not know to whom they belonged. They are my family. The Russells’s were early settlers in St Joe, and when their old family cemetery was discovered, these headstones were moved here to preserve them. So Sorry, no dead bodies, or juicy stories of victims to go with them, just rocks : ). I had been looking all over the internet for a picture of these, so Thanks a million, I finally got to see them.” Thanks for the explanation – mystery solved!]

The third Curious Thing was this Victorian Outhouse. Lovely thing, isn’t it? But kind of strange, nonetheless. But we like Kind Of Strange things, don’t we?

I finally made it up to the entrance of the home. I immediately gravitated over to a case filled with James memorabilia, highlighted by a handsome post-mortem photograph. After perusing the case I wandered into the living room of the tiny house. The history of the house is pretty interesting, actually (at least to terminally dull people like me). It used to be a few blocks away, atop a nearby hill. After James’ death, it sat neglected and was set to be torn down. A man who knew the historic significance of the house was driving by it one day when they were beginning the process of demolition. He stopped and offered to buy the house – and had it moved to preserve it. Eventually it was moved into its current location. Thank goodness for that man, or I’d have nothing to take pictures of!

You all know how Jesse James died, right? What – you don’t??? Where have you been???? Anyway, here’s how Jesse died: he was hanging out with some guys one day, probably planning his next criminal act, when he noticed a needlepoint hanging on the wall was crooked. Being the anal retentive murderer that he was, he slid a chair under the needlepoint and climbed up on the chair to straighten it. As he was doing that, Bob Ford – not a buddy of his after all – calmly strode up behind him and shot him in the back of the head. Jesse collapsed, and his wife ran in from the other room to see Ford and his cronies running away from her fallen hubby. Of course, because James was a wanted man, no criminal charges were ever pressed against Ford and he became quite the celebrity (“The Man Who Shot Jesse James!”) before dying in some tragic circumstance I can’t quite remember…

Well, anyway, here I was standing in the room where it all happened – and oh, the air was electric! Well, okay, maybe not electric… but there was a faint sniff of ozone in the air, anyway. I turned around and what did I see but the famous bullet hole and a wall hanging imitating the one that Jesse had been straightening all those years ago. Why you could almost step back in time – the wallpaper was vintage – and if it wasn’t for the fact that souvenier hunters had been scavenging pieces of the hole for years – causing it to grow in size – the wall would be the same as when Jesse had last laid eyes and hands on it all those years ago. (People are just so damned greedy!!!) I must sadly inform you that the chair was a replica… only a fragment of the original one remained. I tend to think the wall hanging isn’t vintage either…

I wandered off into the adjacent room to find another treasure trove of morbid delight: information on the exhumation of Jesse! You see, some old man once claimed that he was the “real” Jesse James and that the body buried in Jesse’s grave must belong to another man. It’s one of those “haunting” and “enduring” controversies that allow a really great excuse to go and dig up bones! So, on July 17, 1995 a-diggin’ they did go! They found that Jesse’s grave and remains had been compacted to about a four inch width, so not much of the coffin remained. But what did remain ended up in this display cabinet so that I could gawk over it. Look at all this great stuff!! A bullet from Jesse’s right lung which stemmed from an old Civil War injury! The tie tack he was wearing when he was buried! The original ‘At Rest’ plaque, fragments of wood, handles and the shattered glass frontispiece from the coffin! It was almost as good as being there!

They also had on display a plaster casting of Jesse’s skull, with an orange bar showing the trajectory of the bullet. ‘Course it would have been better if it was the REAL skull, but y’know, life just can’t be that interesting… And here’s what they had to say about Jesse’s teeth. Gosh, I hope my teeth never end up in a museum… I can just imagine what they’d say: “Significant number of cavities indicate an overabuse of sugar, worn tooth surfaces betray a lifestyle that caused her to grit her teeth a lot… from this we can surmise that she worked for EDS…” I tell ya, some things are just better left buried!

Oh, and they did some DNA tests and proved that, wow, wouldn’t you know it?, that really WAS Jesse James buried in that grave! That old guy was just a wannabe!
Over in a case across the way was some more memorabilia – including a vintage photo of the house at its original location and a fragment of the original chair. Exciting stuff, eh?

So, that’s about all there was to see at the Jesse James museum. So, what else can a nostalgic old skulker do in a town like St. Joseph? Why, look at abandoned buildings, of course! Did you have any doubt??? Here are the steps leading up to one of my favorite old forgotten houses in St. Joseph. It was a beautiful brick house, overgrown and in decline. I found something especially poignant about this tulip in bloom – a remnant of a long-neglected garden. I could imagine at one time a woman kneeling over the earth as she placed this very bulb in the ground and looking about at her beautifully tended grounds and home. I wonder if her ghost haunts the sad remnants today, and cries a mournful tear at the surroundings? As Lacey and I circled the house, we were a bit shocked to see some old plastic flowers in one of the windows. (And does anyone else see a face in this window? I swear I can make out two big eyes filling up the width of the window staring at me… Creepy! And Elizabeth sees something else: “Ohmigawd!!! Didn’t you notice the girl in the window?!? Her face is in the upper left hand corner of the lower pane of glass. She is wearing a, what is it called, a pinaforte – a white bibbed apron that reaches down to the knee with ruffled shoulders. They used to be worn over a dress up ’till the early 1900’s. Am I crazy or what? Didn’t you see that? Her hand is reaching to part the curtains. I can see half of her face, she is looking out the window right at you!” Enough freaking out the Comtesse, people!) The flowers actually made us wonder if maybe we were not alone, in a far more mundane meaning of the term… but come on… would anyone seriously traverse these steps on a daily basis? No, I think it’s another relic from a time long past…

St. Joseph is full of such beautiful, neglected relics. Check out this place, with its putrid, green paint peeling to reveal the lovely brickwork underneath. Not every place was a downtrodden ruin though – quite a few of the loveliest buildings still retained some hope for a restored tomorrow. Check out this unique house. Or this lovely gothic retreat. Or my personal favorite – this amazing corner house. It really was a lovely town – as this central courtyard, this view towards the river, and this view of the mighty Missouri itself can attest. And since you know by now how much I love to snoop around and photograph urban ruins, you know that I can’t really complain about those either. All in all, St. Joseph was a perfectly lovely (and somewhat morbid) little town… and I hope you enjoyed it too!

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Julie writes with some additional information about the Jesse James home: “Just saw your Web page on Jesse James house. Did you know that it was given to the Patee Museum in the mid-1980s? And that it was originally purchased by my grandfather and sat on the Belt Highway for years near the spot where the Hi-Vee grocery store now sits?”

For more information on the Jesse James Home, also see:
City Of St. Joseph Website

 

Haun’s Mill

Haun’s Mill (Kingston, Missouri)

Haun’s Mill Massacre Site
North of Kingston, MO

Directions:
The road to the site of Jacob Haun’s Mill is a very difficult trip, even in the best of weather. Just north of Kingston, on Missouri Highway 13, the road crosses Shoal Creek, not far north of that is County Road U. Going east on U one continues until the intersection with Road K, continuing east, the road becomes gravel at this point, and deteriorates the further back you go. The way is decently marked, however, if you go while the signs are still up. (many are crude, and appeared to be made of cardboard) There are many mud holes in the road that exist even after weeks of dry weather. Very close to the creek, the road “T’s.” Take the right turn, if you take the left you will cross the creek. At the end of the road on the right, is a small parking area, and a path that leads through a small field to the sign marking the site (above).

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It’s a bit of a head-scratcher, but, believe it or not, once upon a time it was legal to kill Mormons in Missouri. In fact, Governor Lilburn W. Boggs issued an Extermination Order in 1838 which demanded that Latter-Day Saints leave the state or be killed. Why was the Governor so upset with the Mormons? Well, ever since the Mormons had been moving into Missouri there were rumors spreading that the Latter-Day Saints were planning to “despoil” the Missourians and take their land. So, you know, tensions grew and they came to a boil at Haun’s Mill in Northwestern Missouri on October 30, 1838. Some 200-250 militia attacked the mill and 17 Mormons and one friendly non-Mormon were killed; another 13 were wounded, including one woman and a seven year old boy. Certain deaths were particularly offensive to the Saints. Seventy-eight-year-old Thomas McBride surrendered his musket to militiaman Jacob Rogers, who shot him, then hacked his body with a corn knife. William Reynolds discovered ten-year-old Sardius Smith hiding under the bellows and blew the top of the child’s head off. While women cared for the wounded, the men remained in hiding during the night. The dead were thrown into an unfinished well and lightly covered with dirt and straw. A few Missourians returned the next day, took plunder, and warned the remaining Saints to leave Missouri. Now, don’t stories like that just make you proud to be an American?

So, Haun’s Mill – Site Of Infamy. I haven’t actually been to the site, but from what I hear there isn’t a lot of evidence of the Mill left. The stones have been removed and the site of the well where the bodies were buried has been overgrown and lost to the ages. The thrilling place is described by one visitor: “Haun’s Mill was not all that exciting. We drove on a bunch of dirt roads… Haun’s Mill is just a swamp by a river. There were tons of bugs. Even though it wasn’t that impressive, it was good to see an historical site that was totally untouched. ”

So, I guess if you’re one of those people who get chills down the spine just standing on the battlefields at Gettysburg, then you might find Haun’s Mill interesting… but if you need to see the bullet holes to be satisfied then this probably isn’t the place for you.

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Tony Jameson sent me the following information in June, 2010:

My name is Tony Jameson. I am a distant relative of Charles Jameson. Charles and his wife Mary Hedrick Jameson had joined the Latter-day Saint church and were baptized on April 6, 1834. They lived in Perry, Richland County, Ohio. When members of the church were compelled to move from Ohio to Missouri, Charles and Mary moved to Missouri with them. From my research it is not clear to me if Charles and Mary were among the 50 families who lived at Hauns’ Mill, or if they were just passing through the area on the way to Far West, Missouri. At any rate on October 30, 1838 they (and I suppose their many children) were there. Charles was shot four times. Once in the head (which was severe enough to expose his brain), once in the shoulder, and twice in the abdomen. Like all the people in the massacre he tried to escape into the woods. Reduced to crawling he was able to make it to the wood line when two of the militia soldiers came upon him. One of the the soldiers was going to shoot him and finish the deed. The other said something to the effect, “Don’t waste your ammunition upon him. Let him suffer longer; he’s already going to die”. With that they left him to bleed to death. However, Charles somehow survived.

Charles’ life was preserved despite his persecutions. Later the Mormons were forced to flee Illinois or face a similar fate as many of the Mormons faced at Hauns Mill. During the 1,500 mile trek to the safety of the Rock mountains Charle’s wife Mary died of Cholera. Charles later married Nancy Stanley. Nancy and Charles are my progenitors. I am here writing this E-mail to you today, because of a morbid twist of fate at Hauns’ Mill. Had the Missouri militia members come upon Charles Jameson and his brain was not exposed and his abdominal contents not partially eviscerated, they probably would have shot and killed him like they did the other men and small boys. But instead they wanted him to suffer longer. Consequently, they left him to die thus saving themselves a piece of lead they might use on some other defenseless man or child.

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Keith or Janet Cartwright (they didn’t specify who wrote the e-mail) visited Haun’s Mill, and sent me the following account:

I visited the site of Haun’s Mill on the 5th of May, 2002. Yes, It was a bit difficult to find, and yes it would have been near impossible to reach if it had rained within a few days before I arrived, but the visit was well worth my time.

There were a few signs posted on fence posts along the way with an arrow painted to show which direction to turn. This helped a great deal to find the place.

The weather was calm and there were no insects buzzing about. I found a very peaceful and tranquil setting. The stream moves very slow at this location and the trees are very tall. I saw nothing to indicate that anyone other than sightseers had ever been here. As I was leaving, I spotted a stone marker lying in the grass about 10 yards off from the road. This marker had also been vandalized but gave a description of the events of that day in October, 1838.

There is a piece of one of the millstones from Haun’s Mill on display at the LDS Visitor Center on Walnut Street at Independence, MO. It is with the pioneer artifacts on the basement level exhibits.

Thanks, Keith or Janet!

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Hans Brinker visited the site and shares the following:

I visited the site of Haun’s Mill in 1996. I can confirm the reports of rough roads and lots of bugs (the big kind that almost crack your windshield while trying to get to you). Something that was not mentioned on your site: There is a nice wood monument sign there on the approximate site of the well; it has a gold-colored metal plaque engraved with the names of those who died there.

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Nicole visited the site and reports the following:

I am a 19 Year old female who lives only about 30 miles west of Haun’s Mill and not far from Far West. My friends and I went to Haun’s Mill last night, October 30 and saw what there was to see. I believe that if you are out there and you are into what is going on then it can be a very spiritual visit. If everyone is quiet enough you can hear the events take place. You can hear the people scurrying around and you can hear people cry for help. The comment in your web site was untrue because yes you have to go down a lot of dirt roads but once you get there it is a very intense situation. I enjoyed Haun’s Mill and I will return there someday to visit again.There is a very neat grave stone that tells you all about the massacre. The stone lays under a tree that is probably over [a] century old and it said that the tree can’t be killed.

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Keith visited the site and reports the following:

I spent summers on a farm just outside Hamilton, Missouri and my parents took me to Haun’s mill all the time. I believe there were some expeditions to locate the actual well and exhume the bodies to give them a proper burial, but they could never find the well. My parents actually know where the well is and showed me. I believe its a few miles away. The mormons are not buried by Shoal creek. They’re buried in a now deserted field. There used to be a farm house in the field, which deteriorated and crumbled away. The part about getting tingles being there and nothing to see, but a sign, and a very small plaque in the weeds is definitely true.

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Laurette and Jim send the following:

This is a quote that I came across in the Joseph Brigham Keeler Family History book “Build Thee More Stately” by Daniel M Keeler.

“…a group of Saints traveling from Kirtland to Missouri in October 1838, had been brutally attacked by 240 armed men as they rested their animals at Haun’s Mill. Nineteen men and young boys were killed or fatally wounded. Among these were Levi Merrick and his nine-year-old son, Charles.
The wounded and dying were left without care.
Philinda Eldredge Merrick, Levi’s widow, and her surviving children were left with the other families to fend for themselves in the cold November weather. The mob took their wagons containing food, clothing and supplies and threatened to kill all survivors if they did not leave, even though their means of departure had been removed.(Joseph Smith 1948, 3:183-187, 323-326).

(Philinda married Daniel Hutchinson Keeler )

Their granddaughter Philinda Keeler Naegle proceeded with following account:

“Philinda Merrick witnessed in horror the murder of her husband in cold blood, and the mortal wounding of her eldest son, Charlie, as he lay almost hidden behind the bellows in the blacksmith shop…
The pillaging that followed the massacre, the mobsters took the Merrick team and , from Brother Merrick’s pocket, the proceeds from the sale of their former home, leaving Plilinda penniless(Ibed 5).
Phillinda nursed her wounded son until he died in late November and somehow cared for her other three children (Fanny, Newton and George) (Ibed., 4)

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mfciam sends the following:

I went with my school to Haun’s Mill for an archeological dig. << No well, just many nails, some pottery and a musketball.>> The church owns it, so it was kinda weird having scores of geriatric mormons showing up in a tour bus every couple of hours. The place has no remaining buildings – it’s just a field with a parking lot. The story was great, but the hours of trowel-scraping at the dirt were not as exciting. There’s an amazing tour guy who gives historical tours about Far West, but I’d suggest you have some background understanding of the importance of Far West or you end up getting very bored and taking pictures of monuments trying to get angles where the lord ends up saying things like < > I’m not sure if it’s a secular tour group. They didn’t really focus on any religion, so it could be taken as a purely historical tour. I’m sure if one were to talk nicely to *somebody* from that website they could end up with the proper connections to work on a dig over the summer.

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Scott sends the following:

My ancestors were at the Haun’s Mill Massacre and we recently found a few new details as told by Mellisa Norton.

Her father was David Norton who owned land East of Haun’s Mill on the south side of the creek and was close to the Austin Hammer family. In fact two of the Norton brothers married two of Austin Hammer’s daughters.

Here is her story related in Mellisa’s obituary.

‘Her father and family gathered to the mill for protection the night previous to the massacre. Father Norton had a premonition that trouble would occur and that if he remained he would be slain. His home being in a rather secluded place he returned with his family, consequently they escaped injury. The day after the massacre David Evans and others of the survivors, took refuge in a thicket on Brother Norton’s farm. To them, in company with her mother, Mellisa carried provisions until peace was restored….’

David Norton, (the father) later built his home right next to David Evans in the old fort at Lehi, Utah. To my knowledge, this detail of what happened after the massacre has never been reported.

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Do you disagree? Do you have pictures or stories to share about Haun’s Mill?
Please – by all means – WRITE ME!

Marais des Cygnes Massacre Site

Marais des Cygnes Massacre Site (Pleasanton, Kansas)
Per the website, “In May 1858, proslavery men gunned down 11 free-state men in a ravine that is now this important landmark. The shootings shocked the nation and became a pivotal event in the Bleeding Kansas era. Take a drive through this now beautiful natural setting and experience the site through outdoor exhibits.”